Source: FieldTripEarth.org

The Story of Lake Mattamuskeet

by Rod Hackney


The Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge sits in the heart of Hyde County in eastern North Carolina. The main feature of the refuge is a 40,000-acre lake - Lake Mattamuskeet, which is the largest natural lake in the state.

Marshlands, forests and croplands circle the lake and provide habitat for a host of wildlife, including Canada and snow geese, tundra swans and 22 species of ducks that overwinter on the refuge every year. The lakebed is shallow, ranging from about 6 inches to no more than 5 feet deep. The average depth of the lake is about 18 inches.

The historic Mattamuskeet Lodge and its adjacent pumping station and 112-foot tower sit on the southern edge of the lake. This lodge has a peppered history that began in 1915 when the Mattamuskeet Drainage District (a state agency) began constructing what was to become the largest pumping station the world had ever known.

The pumping station, fashioned after a similar one in Holland, was intended to force the water out of Lake Mattamuskeet and send it tumbling through 130 miles of dredged canals into the Pamalico Sound. Meanwhile, private investors bought the lake, hoping to see 100,000 acres of it pumped dry enough to divide into farms and residential lots. These parcels were expected to entice people from all over America to move into the county and to build a model community.

Initially, two structures arose on the site, a building to hold the pumps and a 124-foot tall smokestack to carry out the fumes that would belch from the coal-fired steam engines turning the pumps. Soon, though, enthusiastic developers constructed a first-class hotel, the New Holland Inn, beside the pump house and the tower.

The pumps' first attempt to drain Lake Mattamuskeet began in 1916 when four 850- horsepower steam engines spun into action and began moving 1,200,000 gallons of water out of the lake every minute. Even at this rate, the pumps failed to perform as expected and the costs associated with running them skyrocketed. By 1917, the investors' money was depleted, the pumping had stopped and the water trickled back into the lake bed.

The following year, a second group of investors bought the dream and the lake. Meanwhile, the Drainage Commission had the pumps upgraded with redesigned impellers and hired a company to dredge the silt out of collapsed canals. As the lake grew smaller and drier, investors built houses, stores and roads in the town that had come to be called "New Holland."

Alas, however, the money ran dry before the lake did, and bankruptcy sank this effort in 1923. With no money to fuel the plan, the pumps stopped, the water came home and the lake returned to its normal level.

Two years later, in 1925, another developer stepped in with a new dream: to drain the land and turn it into one large commercial farm. By 1926, the pumps were pumping again, and by 1929, this New Holland Cooperation had turned 5,000 acres of lake into cultivated fields of soybeans, corn and wheat.

While this farm enjoyed some minor successes, the climate and the soggy soils eventually won again. By 1932, the farm had closed, the pumps had gone silent and the water was home again. This time, it filled the lake beyond the brim, flooding the first floor level of the hotel and the homes that remained in the small town.

In 1934, the United States government bought the lake and turned it into Lake Mattamuskeet Migratory Bird Refuge. The Civilian Conservation Corps helped set up the refuge and refashioned the pumping plant into a hunting and fishing lodge. As they worked, the corps installed a spiral staircase in the old smokestack, knocked 12 feet off its height and added a viewing platform to make it an observation tower.

Three years later, Mattamuskeet Lodge opened to the public, quickly earning a reputation as the "Canada Goose Hunting Capital of the World." It lost that title rather quickly though, as poor land-use practices and climate changes combined to drastically reduced the region's goose population.

In 1972, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service launched a major initiative to help restore the geese. As part of this effort, the Service stopped permitting goose hunting on Lake Mattamuskeet, which forced the lodge to close its doors in 1974.

In 1981, Lake Mattamuskeet's buildings landed on the National Register of Historic Places, and several organizations sprang up to protect these structures. The Greater Hyde Country Chamber of Commerce formed the Friends of Mattamuskeet Lodge Committee to promote the restoration and use of the structures. A nonprofit organization, the Partnership for the Sounds, organized to help the Fish and Wildlife Service and a host of community groups raise funds to renovate the buildings. Another nonprofit organization, The Mattamuskeet Foundation, formed to preserve and publish the history of the lake. These organizations, and others, hope to turn the Lodge at Lake Mattamuskeet into a center for educational activities, interpretative exhibits, community gatherings and administrative offices.

To learn more about Lake Mattamuskeet and its historic buildings, contact:
Partnership for the Sounds
P.O. Box 55
Columbia, NC 27925
252.796.1000
Greater Hyde County Chamber of Commerce
Friends of Mattamuskeet Lodge Committee
P.O. Box 178
Swan Quarter, NC 27885
252.925.5201
The Mattamuskeet Foundation, Inc.
4377 Lewis Land Rd.
Ayden, NC 28513
252.746.4221
Media Gallery


Lake Mattamuskeet Pumping Station
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About the author:

Rod Hackney is the Public Relations Manager at the North Carolina Zoological Park.


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